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Memoirs The Kerlen Stories

The Memoirs of J.G. Kerlen – Part 10

CHAPTER II

 
My life and career as subaltern officer.
b. As Captain.
With the permission to my engagement Papa Baumgarten had set the condition, that it was not allowed to be public before I, as a good son, would have got permission from my parents.

So I wrote immediately to Holland with the request to answer by telegraph; although that took nearly a month.
But I was alllowed to see Charlotte every day and also correspond with her and as a result the secret was soon a secret of Punch.
Together with the announcement of my promotion I got the order from the Chief of Arns to make a trip to the far East in order to possibly sign a contract for the delivering of a large quantity of teakwood, needed for the building of the hospital in Panteh-Perak and the officer’s houses in Nesoeh.
On the 11th October already I boarded the British SS. Puttiala ( later on taken over by the Ned. Ind. Steamboat comp. and renamed G.G. v. Lansberghe ).
The boat stopped 2 days in Penang, where Mr. Paddy as Consul of the Netherlands had been sacked and replaced by a professional Consul, Mr. Lavino. I stayed with him and who can describe my amazement when the next morning he congratulated me with my engagement; the clever man had made the assumption himself from one of the letters  I received from Charlotte written in neat lady’s handwriting and so I was found out.
Through this the secret became general knowledge quite soon.
The journey with the Puttiala was very interesting and took several days. There was another Dutchman on bard and with him I played cards or dominos or we read a book from the very good library on board.
On Sundays playing games was actually forbidden and we were only allowed to read holy books.

The boat did not touch at Moulmain, sothat I first landed in Rangoon.

In the Irawaddy river, on which left banks Rangoon lies, a lot of coal had to be burnt so the ship could keep at a decent speed.
When we arrived at the location of the city, I saw quite a few paddle steamers to the American model with three decks which maintained the large passenger traffic on the river; one would imagine to be in yankeeland. On the banks we saw the world famous Pagoda with her large heavily gilted dome, for which maintenance a yearly sum of 200.000 rupies was collected.
There was no decent hotel in this large city with her uncountable rice hulling mills and large amount of sawmills; so I gratefully took up the invitation of the consul to stay with him. Through the care of Mr. Reed I had an unlimited credit and since no banknotes existed I had to take a large bag with rupies for my personal expenses.
I spent a few days to check if I could fill the order given to me, but it was obvious that at the saw mills they only worked for the internal use and beams and boards which I needed they rather not delivered.
My trip as far as Rangoon was concerned had failed, but I still had the opportunity to visit the sights of the town; like I visited the already mentioned Pagoda and admired this enormous Hindu edifice with it’s colossal statues and also visited one of the largest rice hulling mills; in the center of the town I found a Dutch shop, the head of it was Mr. Noordhoek-Hegt, brother of the Dutch East Indian major intentant.
The consul, who had received me in a very hospitable way, had told me, that I would certainly have more luck in Moulmain, and I thus I left for it 3 days later.
The jounrney happened with a paddle steamer, to which the command was given that she had to run at a speed of 16 nautical miles to be able to reach the rivermouths of the Moulmain river and Irawaddy both on time before sunset; the result of this high speed was that the ship was shaking terribly and that the passengers had not one moment of rest; so we were all glad and happy when the boat touched the pier at Moulmain.
Paddle steamer at Rangoon, 1890.

A remarkable aspect opened in front of our eyes, all yards abd ropes of the ships were covered with crows,  who were waiting for food from the crew; the land was as it were poisoned by these black thieves.
At the dinnertable of the consul, with whom I stayed again, they were so cheeky, they pinched the rice of our plates.

Moulmain had a large garrison, at which head stood a colonel of Infantry; I had requested to pay my respects to him and was received by his spouse; she kept me busy in a very charming way and afterwards took me to the office to her husband, who invited me three days later to come round by 5 pm to the officer’s mess and after attending the game of graces and the musical performance to stay for dinner.

The same day I commenced visiting the different steam sawmills. These were all arranged on a large scale and had the peculiarity to be operated by very few workers. To each sawmill a large storage place was attached, where the square beams were piled up in prismatic formation; between these prismas smooth wooden platforms were installed, which were in the middle crossed by a broad similar platform.
Along these platforms the heavy square beams of more than 18m in length and some 1 m thick are being transported by elephants, at which only 2 cornacs ran the whole show.

The elephant places himself above one of the prismatic piles of wood, whips one of the heavy beams with his tusks on the platform next to it, shifts the beam with his leg in the wanted direction and pushes the log with his trunk in a trot to the wider platform, lies that one again in the direction of the mill and again in a trot to the mill.
With the examination of the beams the elephant stands above one of the prismas and turns wiht his tusks every beam each time a quater around and when this has been examined, he starts with the next one.

In this way one can examine a party of wood in less than 1/4th of the time, which is needed on Java with coolies.
When the elephant has done enough to his liking, he then demands a bath and no cornac can keep him working; Mr. goes calmly to the river, jumps in it and keeps splashing himself with his trunk for quite some time.

footnote:
a carnac is an elephant minder.

Remarkable is that the visitor will be asked not to give the animals anything; if someone for instance would give one of them a piece of sugarcane then he would not rest the next day until he had been given something.

The consul had told me, that the forestry chief was a Dutchman and that he would certainly appreciate it if I would pay him a visit; so after having asked if it was ok I drove with the consul’s carriage to the beautiful villa of my countryman, whose first words were:” You must excuse me not to talk Dutch any more”. He received me in the most charming way and told me amongst others that he had stayed behind in Moulmain as a youthful ships mate, but had worked his way up to a high position through hard work and self study.
My time didn’t allow for further visits to him.

On Friday afternoon before I would be leaving I visited another steammill, where a Frenchman stood at the head; he also had planned to go to the mess and he suggested to drive together. So I arrived at the same time with him at the games ground and complimented the colonel. He expressed his surprise that I also spoke French and asked if I could also understand German; to my confirmative answer he said that he was going to introduce me to a German lady, who had no countryman in Moulmain. We did as suggested.

We started to chatter in German and after a little while it was clear that the lady had lived in Rotterdam for 12 years; so I was also allowed to speak in my own language once more and I preferred this despite the colonel giving me a compliment, when he introduced me as: Captain Kerlen, speaks every language.

I didn’t take part in the game of graces, becauseI had never played it and thus concentrated at watching, under the pleasure of the military music band. That band also played at the next dinner, which was really very well done and was lavishly sprinkled with champaign, whilst at the dessert sherry and portwine were going round.
At the table I was seated next to the spouse of the colonel, whilst next to me the second commander of the garrison colonel Nabington was seated.
He was a lupus sufferer and had two quills in his nose, through which he was breathing. I could not understand how such a filthy person could stay in active service.

Besides, in Singapore I was also astonished about the artillery major, who daily came with his carriage driving along the Esplanade whilst his syce harnessed the horse and changed the harness for a military one , drank 3 to 4 brandy cocktails at the bar of the Hotel de l’Euirope and then mounted his horse again; 3 hours later this game was played in reverse order and major went home stoned every day. Such examples we do not tolerate in the army.

In the meantime I had succeeded well and I had signed a contract for a reasonable price with a Persian firm for the complete delivering within three months of the needed goods; since the examination of the wood had to be done by the consul I had someone make standing models of each kind of beam, joist or board, to which a small error was present, lesser quality than these examples were not allowed to be delivered.

3 Days later at my farewell the consul made me a compliment because I had finished the business in good order so quickly; an English officer would have needed 1 to 2 months for it; I was not allowed to pride myself on that as I had a large attraction in Singapore, which encouraged me to be fast.

The return journey didn’t present anything particular; in Penang I found 3 letters from Charlotte, of which one was already an answer to one of my letters from Rangoon. When the Puttiala ( the same boat with which I had  left ) dropped the anchor in the street of Singapore I flew in a hirecar and drove immediately to the Castle to embrace my love; I had been away for 3 weeks.

Upon returning I found an order from my chief to hold a tender for the building of a camp in Oleh-leh and this did happen after proper announcement; there were 5 tenders and the least was asked by the firm Howarth, Lyon & Erskine, from which Mr. Lyon was present at the tender. He asked $ 100 000, which in the first place seemed far too dear, although I wasn’t much informed about prices and wages, materials and freights.
I declared the tender a failure, although Mr. Lyon asked me afterwards if he could talk to me about the case in the evening in the hotel, which I agreed to.

At our closer conversation he then asked me if I had taken into account the fact, that in the asked sum of $ 100 000 also my allowance was included, as it was usually done in Singapore.
I answered that this habit didn’t exist amongst Dutch officers and besides that my Government paid me enough, to which he asked if he could hand in a new tender.
This request I also granted and the next morning I received the new form, in which he only asked $ 80 000. After a closer look I assigned him the job; a draft contract was drawn up and the ok from Batavia was requested and granted.
So through my action I had earned 50 000 guilders for my Government.

A day after the signing of the approved contract I was sitting down for breakfast, when a large letter was handed over, in which envelope a second one with the word: private written on it, at the opening of the second envelope a bunch of banknotes appeared, certainly to the value of $ 2000; I showed Hermens in which way one tried to bribe me and asked him to immediately send the money back to Mr. Lyon. That it came from him was certain in my opinion, since I clearly recognised the handwriting on both envelopes.
That I had not misjudged was proved to be right, because Mr. Lyon still came to apologise the same day.

Life in Singapore for me ran smoothly, did I have a lot of work at the many building projects, at 5 pm I had finished, dolled up myself in the hotel and then drove to the Castle, where first crocket was played and music made and after dinner Charlotte and I took our places on the sofa in the big hall, used for this purpose; we were then teased by the eldest sister, Mrs. Maingay, who called us the spoon couple and predicted to C. that she would one day be jealous of the piano, which I so fondly played.
The Sundays on the Castle were evenso boring as we were only allowed to accompany holy songs, luckily though they didn’t touch our little sofa.

This beautiful life wouldn’t actually last for long, as in the beginning of December I received a message from Batavia that my domain in Singapore had finished and I would be releaved by the captain of engineers Haver-Droeze from the Dutch Army.
Discussing my uncoming marriage with my future father in law, he found, that we were engaged still too short to be thinking about it already, besides he wanted to have proof, that we also would be faithful to each other after separation and I simply had to agree with that.

Haver-Droeze came and the change over started. During this change over I received a letter with  snall parcel from Mr. Lyon; in this letter he repeated his excuses that he had offered me an allowance at that time, but had the opinion that I would still accept the enclosed golden watch with same chain as a memento for the pleasant way in which we had worked together.
H.D. to whom I had notified everything, thought that I could accept this souvenir, but I was thinking that later on I would feel ashamed if one would ask me from whom I had received that beautiful watch, an opinion which in the evening papa Baumgarten shared with me.
So I send the parcel back the next day with a polite thankyou note and I have never been sorry about that.

On the 21st of December I departed for Batavia and arrived there 2 days later.
So I didn’t get to enjoy a happy Christmas, which I had last year and had given me so much pleasure, with my future family.

Upon arriving in Batavia I understood from colonel Ermeling, that he had suggested to send me in the commision to the Westside of Borneo in order to make up a project for the transfer of the camp from Singkawang to Ponitanak.
Awaiting my departure I was free of service and used that time to visit all my old friends and besides write long letters to Charlotte.

On the 5th of January 1878 I departed with a steamer direct to Singkawang and was invited to move upon my arrival into the house of the officer charged with the engineering service.
I started immediately with the research to transfer buildings, of which most were in exceptional good state.

Especially the frames, roofs and floors excelled because of their perfectness; so were the uprights which were standing in the ground and had been exposed to water and wind for 35 years, the floors were smooth and had nearly become all black as marble and the shingles all still useable. From all of this it was obvious what kind of excellent material iron wood had been.

So my investigation didn’t take long and after an inspection of the engineer service I could take off to Bengkajang, where I also had to hold an inspection according to the order.
To reach this place one had first to go to Montrado, for which 3 days were needed, as it went so slowly because one had to travel by palankeen, carried by Chinese coolies. So the first night I had to stay in a kind of guesthouse, served by Dajakkers, which was not at all comfortable and hygienic. The coolies slept in the same hall as I and smoked their opium pipe.
The second day it was boiling hot and therefore I had put on an indigenous shirt instead of a jacket; I have been so sorry about this, as my skin burnt badly and I was happy to arrive in the afternoon at the assistent resident of Montrado, whom I had asked to visit. I have never had a nicer bath than in the swimmingpool, which he had in his annexes.
After a delicious lunch and a short siesta we went to visit the village, which was inhabited by Chinese miners and I was in the opportunity to see the working of the goldmines and the washing of the goldsand; one of the Chinese chiefs was so polite to offer me a very small bottle with golddust, of which I later on had a brooch made for Charlotte.
The next day I was given a small horse to use by the Assistent Resident to make the trip back to Bengkajang and I arrived there late afternoon. From this village I could only observe, that the reinforcement was built in a valley, surrounded by hills, of  which it was clear that at the construction no objection had risen in connection with the bad armament of the enemy.
Soon my inspection had finished and before long I followed the return trip.
After was back for 3 days in Singkawang I still had to make a trip to Sambas, which happened by a governemental crossproa. Although this is a very slow means of transport, wind and weather was in my favour and so I was quite soon at my destination.
Footnote:
Kruisprauw = a kind of medium sized sailing boat, used by the Government in the Dutch East Indies to sail along the coastlines of the islands. I could not find a proper translation for it.

The inspection lead to nothing particular and I can tell very little about the village itself,  sothat I will continue with my story after my return to Singkawang, which I reached in the same way as I had left it. I had to wait for the arrival of the bi-weekly mailboat with the effect that I couldn’t conintue my journey to Pontianak until the 9th February. The mailboad didn’t touch Pontianak, but stopped for the mouth of the Kapoeas river so it could unload passengers and goods; usually a well manned sloop came to pick them up with the mail. This was not the case this time and I had to do with a raft from the crossproa which was lying in front of the river. It went very slowly against the current and I sat there boring and annoying myself for hours, when finally the Resident’s sloop came to meet me close to Pontianak and took me to the jetty.

I stayed at the very small hotel nearby and then reported with the Regional Military Commander Ltnt. de Pauw and the Resident, nicknamed Kees Kater.
A little while later adjutant of the ltnt. colonel, my yearmate Maurenbrecher came to ask me if I wouldn’t rather stay with him, against which I had not the least objections, because the lodging at the hotel was highly primitive.
M. was married with Betsy Fokker, sister of the later Mrs. de Neve; they had two nice children and I stayed with this family most pleasantly; I still remember how the hostess prepared the fricadel for the rijsttafel, which she always did herself.
Pontiak was a real mudpoool; the houses are all built from wood on poles, which find their strength on sleepers dug in below the waterline. There are only a few roads which are elevated and connect the several houseblocks; these roads are more or less hardened with coarse gravel laid down next to each other, these are not allowed to be driven on by carts or carriages. The houses are all connected with wooden bridges to these weak roads and the housingblocks are twice a day submerged for about 1 m and most movement and the whole transporation thus goes by canoe or prao.
Old Pontianak.