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Memoirs The Kerlen Stories

The Memoirs of J.G. Kerlen – Part 11

Still, the health situation despite all this water and mudpools is good and epimdemics don’t occur often. Just like in Singkawang, yet more regularly, a busy correspondence with Singapore exist through Chinese steamers with shallow draughts, which bring goods and take away forest products and so it was all the time possible for me to keep a correspondence with Charlotte; we had agreed – and her father had approved of it – that our wedding would take place after my commission trip, and therefore I had asked a 14 days leave to Singapore, which was permitted.

My first occupation was to look for decent terrain to transfer the barracks and officer’s houses and I had my eyes set on a strip of grounds which was offered by the Arab Said-Salem and situated next to the road which led to the social club on the river.
When I told Maurenbrecher this, he told me that something happened with this land and he would check it out in the regional archive; it proved that there used to be a hospital on this land, which had been abandoned due to health reasons and that the land had been bought by Said-Salem for next to nothing.
Well this Arab, everyone knew it, was the right hand of the Resident, who actually was the owner. He also owned the hotel and also a sawmill opposite the house of M.
Every day in the morning he passed by with a long German pipe in his mouth to look at the Chinese sawyers and then he looked like a patriarch.

It was a strange situation, still nobody pretended to notice anything. One thing is, sure that after the warning of M. I didn’t want anything to do with the offered piece of land and besides I also found other well situated places.
For the barracks the yard had to be raised because of the construction of the buildings; the officer’s houses could be transferred completely and erected on dug in sleepers. Herewith I make a note that the exsisting fort and the hospital were also standing on higher ground and still mention as remarkableness, that in the middle of that fort stood a large waterapple tree, the fruit of which had a particular scent of roses and so the tree was also called djamboe ajer mawar ( rose water apple ); I have not seen them again anywhere in Indie.

Whist I was still staying with M. a Singaporean Arab announced himself and he suggested to make up a contract with him for the entire excecution of the transportation of the buildings; he therefore made a shameful suggestion to share the profit. I took the fellow by his collar and threw him out the door, later on it was clear to me that he was quite a high ranking follower of the Maharadja of Djohore, which I hope will be more clear later in these memoires.

My activities in Pontiak were as good as finished, but I still had to make an inspection trip to Sintang and Nanga-Pinoh. The trip to Sintang went by government’s steamer, which had been put to my use by the Resident. The captain was Mr. de Rijk, who’se family lived ashore and who had as extra income the exploitation of a large coconut plantation West of Pontiak.
He was a sturdy old sailor, who loved to play at omber. So the journey was a concatenation of parties, even so, that he suggested to play first several unwashed solos after rising in the morning.

With the sailing up the Kapoeas river the scenery of the landscape started to change slowly, the vegetation became sparcer, the banks higher and the current in which no influence of high or low tide was noticeable any longer, rather strong, sothat in the end we only slowly progressed.  So the journey then did take several days.

Sintang is situated on the left banks of the Kapoeas river, a little more North of the point, where the Melawie discharges itself in this river. It is a sweet location, consisting of a reinforcement with outer lying civilian and military houses, most of them built from ironwood.
I stayed with the Assistant Resident Gysberts, who had invited me therefore as passenger on the government’s steamer and I spent a few pleasant days there besides my service, which went in a normal way.

After that I went to Nanga-Pinoh with an extremely small paddle steamer, which in the strong current was difficult to steer; already when passing the bend, where the Melawie joins the Kapoeas, the captain commanded the sailor, “left” to avoid the boat capsizing to the right. A simiar command was neccessary at every sharp bend, which we passed.

The Kapoeas river.

The more we sailed up the Melawie river the steeper the banks became and upon arrival in Nanga-Pinoh we found that the jetty was 10m under the terrain, on which a very primitive temporary reinforcement and next to it the controller’s house, were standing.
There wasn’t much to inspect here and I only had to check as was the plan, to see if there was a spot to build a wooden block house. This was immediately done and we used the lunch with the controller and returned to Sintang in the afternoon.
This went as it were in a jiffy, however because of the strong current the little paddle steamer was even less manageable and the captain had to repeat his command all the time: sailor left and sailor right; but we were soon at our destination.

The next morning I returned again with Mr. de Rijk for Pontiak in a very short time playing at omber.
I had nothing else to do than to bring an official farewell visit; at the Resident I still had the opportunity to admire the wonderful figure of Mrs. Kater, who could not wear a dress any more and all the time appeared in a dressing gown because of her corpulence; she kept her hands in the pockets and her arms then made with her body a 45’ corner.
After also saying goodbye to family Maurenbrecher, who had received me so hospitably, I left one of the last days of March for Singapore with a small Chinese boat and arrived there after travelling more than 24 hours after having had a real shaky and uncomfortable night.

I hurried to the hotel de l’Europe to drop off my luggage and to change and soon arrived at the Castle, where of course I was received with open arms and stayed there the rest of the day.

The next day I went out with Papa Baumgarten to do what was neccessary for the solemnisation of the marriage. For this we went to the dean of the Anglican church, an old and very respectable man, who immediately made objections because it was Lent and it was not custumary to contract a marriage then; it was even compulsory for each believer during that period to live apart from his spouse. When Papa B. pointed out to him, that I as a stranger had come here especially for this and no oppprtunity would have to return in the near future, he agreed and decided to issue the required Licence.

Papa B. had to sign a written declaration that he wanted to hand over his daughter to me and I had to take the oath, that I was not married, for which I, according to English custom, had to kiss the bible which he held in his hand.

On the same afternoon I received through intervenance of Papa B. a large white cardboard, supplied with a document with the Bishop’s seal, in which each prelate in the parish Singapore was ordered to confirm the marriage between my bride and me, no matter what hour of the day or night. They call this Mariage by Licence and this is always customary with the upperclass English families, although it is very costly.
Another costly business is the wedding cake; this one had already been ordered in Calcutta by papa B. and costed as much as $500; in Singapore you couldn’t buy them as beautiful.
The wedding was settled for 4th April 1878 and awaiting this I now was considered a member of the family and I was allowed to come along in papa’s carriage, which before was denied. Only I wasn’t tolerated the day before the wedding and I found my salvation with Hermens and Haver-Droeze, at which both men I had requested to act as witness on my wedding.
The following day the ceremony took place in the Gothic Chapel of St. Andrews on the Esplanade; as a groom I had to  arrive in my own carriage. The bride was accompanied by her father and the bridesmaids in a seperate carriage; the best men had to come on their own account.
At the moment that the procession entered the church I discovered that my witnesses were not present and I was obliged to invite two marine officers to replace them. Haver-Droeze still came at the very last minute, still instead of Hermens navy ltnt Quispel acted.
The procession then walked to the altar, upon which the serving clergy asked: Who gives the bride away? and Papa B. then gave Charlotte in my arm and we both had to kneel in front of the altar. Charlotte looked very sweet and atrracted everyone’s admiration and the church was packed with family, friends and those interested.
The form of the blessing was very long and ended with the wellknown exchanging of the weddingrings. The content of all the forms is for our Dutchies very strange; I will not attempt to repeat them here; you can read them in every English prayer book.
St Andrews Catherdral, Singapore. A beautiful gothic church, on the Esplanade, this road has later been named St. Andrews Rd. The church is still standing today and is pure white.
After the marriage ceremony everything went to the consistory room, where the contract was signed by all involved and therefore requested friends of the bride and groom ( for me for instance Mr. W.H. Read ).
The original licence was given to me and then we left the church along the altar and inbetween the churchpews where all interested were still sitting; the organ played Mendelsshohn’s Weddingmarch.
The bridesmaids and my witnesses left the church first in order to receive the guests upon arrival, next followed Charlotte and I, papa B. with the eldest daughter, members of the family and all guests who drove immediately to the Castle.Here, every guest was pinned a rosette on the chest, of a different colour, if they were married or single.
Then the young ladies were asked to rid the weddingcake of it’s surplus confectionery and had to be found which young girl had found the ring, the penny or the thimble in their prize; the owner of the ring would get married first, the one of the penny would become rich and the one with the thimble would be an old maid; the latter of course remained unknown.After this joke I was invited as an officer to cut the weddingcake with my sabre, after which each of the guests was handed over a portion; Charlotte’s share were 5 full storage jars.
Under the champaign Haver-Droeze as eldest groomsman had to give a speech, of which he aquitted himself excellently in perfect English.  I also had to give a toast to thank my father-in-law for all the good, which he had done for me and the guests for their interest.
After this a buffet lunch was served around, whilst Charlotte withdrew herself to be changed by her eldes sisters for the journey.

Towards 4 o’ clock everything was finished and we, newly married, stepped into the carriage ready for us, richly thrown with slippers and rice behind.

The place where we would spend our honeymoon was a bungalow in Poengoel, which had kindly been made available for us by Charlotte’s cousin Edwin Koek. It was an old house and built on high poles with a great view situated on the Northside of the island of Singapore. In front of the house was a bathing place built out in the sea, completely surrounded by poles against fish, dangerous for people.

I had sent my houseboy Laoet with his wife ahead, the latter was an excellent cook and both already for years in my service.
So it would all have been wonderful if it wasn’t for the bungalow being poisoned with bugs, which we already soon discovered; the first night we hadn’t really noticed it, but the next night we could’t possibly stay in bed; it was so irritable, that the third morning I had sent Laoet with an emergency letter to father-in-law requesting to stay with him till our departure for Java.
Three hours later Laoet came back with a suitable carriage and we headed back to the Castle.
Before we entered the house our clothing was carafully checked and cleaned.
We kept waiting for the French mail, still had some pleasant days and departed on the 11th of April with the steamer La Seyne of the messagiers maritimes, with which we made a pleasant and succesful journey to Batavia.
When we arrived here I hired a pavillion with attached room and seperate veranda in the Hotel Ort in Molenvliet and had to pay 210 guilders for this cosy lodging with meals.
The following day I reported with my Chief, who gave me a few days leave and appointed me a room at the head office, though after 2 pm all my time was for Charlotte. We used that of course happily and visited several plays and opera; Charlotte especially enjoyed the Saturday evening concerts in the beautiful garden of the social club Concordia.
We also paid many visits to introduce Ch. to the families where I used to experience hospitality; for instance we were one evening with the parents of my witness Hermens at the Willem III Gymnasium and Charlotte could go for it in her mother’s tongue with the English born lady of the house. At that occasion I teased Charlotte a little bit with the 5 glass jars with weddingcake, which she had brought into the marriage, at which Mrs. Hermens flew out and said: Mr. Kerlen, do you know that a good English lady has weddingcake on her death bed?
This happy life didn’t last long, because within a month Ch. started to feel sick, she had litte appetite, hated the food in the hotel and always wanted to eat something else; like one evening she felt like eating pasties and after I had been able to get 6 with great difficulty at Tersteeg, she tasted one and didn’t want them anymore, sothat I ate them myself in the end.
Being still green in married life I asked the advice of my friend Dr. Westhoff, who made fun at me and congratulated me with my oncoming fatherhood. Her whims however were gradually becoming less and Ch. was only sick just before she went out.
One evening I read in the paper that in the Marine hotel ( later on Eigen Hulp ) the teacher G.J. Kerlen had arrived. I went there at once and found my cousin with his spouse and some more people in a hot closed up room; I made them clear that it would be better to sit in the front veranda and invited them to come and tour with us the following afternoon in a tented carriage, so they could see something of Batavia; much pleasure I didn’t get from this hospitality, as will be clear later on, I only want to note, that when we were at the Koningsplein and saw a grazing goat, the teacher’s wife called out: Look there Garrit, a goaty: by this she very much gave proof of her common Deventer background.
I knew there were people in Singapore who were envious of me, but that under these were also slanderers was clear to me these days. One day I was summoned at the office of the Chief and he told me, that he had heard along, that the delivery of wood in Moulmain was very diappointing and that I when signing the contract had shirked the difficulty. Of course I was flabbergasted and asked the Chief to request a report of the case from the senior engineer officer in Atjeh; this took place and Major Dozy answered by return mail. When his writing arrived I was once more called on the mat and the colonel let me read it. Major Dozy wrote that he had never, in his whole service seen such beautiful wood work.
The Chief wished me luck and for me this was a great satisfaction.

 

Versteeg 1878

At the end of May I had just about finished my projects for Borneo, when I learnt that the old major in our Arms, Mr. Carlier  who was the senior engineer’s officer in Tjilatjap, didn’t fair well there and so he should be taking his pension; my informer again was the secret writer Verstappen. The capt. then was Kielstra, working at the head office in the personnel department and awaiting the return of the chief, who was travelling a few days, had in advance made 2 concepts with a sharp pen, the first one to promote major C.; the other to retire him. The Chief chose the latter and decided that I would act as his successor, which was agreed upon on the 3rd June by the Commander of the Army.

Since the boat to Tjilatjap departed only on the 15th June each month we still were in the opportunity to celebrate my birthday in Batavia.
We had quite a few guests in our small pavillon and Ch. aquitted herself as hostess in an excellent way and also performed some songs, which I accompanied on our new piano, which I had bought for 1000 guilders at the firm Becker  ( 400 cash and 12 payments of 50 guilders monthly ).

So we left on the 15th  for Tjilatjap and took our large luggage, as well as that of Charlotte, which had been stored, with us.
Charlottte was in excellent condition and was only a bit seasick when leaving the Strait Sunda, however this disappeared after eating a portion of roedjak, prepared by our future neighbour, Mrs. Derks.

The admission to the Street of Tj. was beautiful and the speed through the very small beaconned off Strait of Noesah-kembangan was for the sailor not too difficult.
After the anchor was dropped many sloops came aboard; in one of them sat my prospective adjutant, Infantry ltnt. de Vries-Hofman, who had asked us to stay with him for the first few days; next to him sat the assistent Resident v. Vleuten, both known gamblers and from the sloop they already shouted at me: Can you play at omber? to which I replied: Yes, but not too high.

The arrival at the jetty opposite the house of the Ass. Resident and the entrance of the road to the camp make the friendliest impression and one cannot imagine, that it would be very unhealthy living here.
The house of de Vries-Hofman was situated at the end of the Canari-Ambon bordered lane, the major’s home in the middle: which would become our future enclave.Since major Carlier had to leave with the returning boat, the next morning he had already a sale of his neat inventary; my attempt to take over the whole lot didn’t succeed and so I bought all we needed on the auction. Together with the things we had brought with us we got quite a good setup and a few days later we could move in the comfortable house.
Laoet and his wife had followed us to Tj. and so we had a good couple of servants at once and only had to hire a gardener and seamstress.Our houshold running along nicely this way, three weeks later I collapsed during our early evening walk and I had to be carried home.
The doctor diagnosed a serious malaria attack and presbribed 20 quinine pills for several days, through which I soon, be it temporarily, got better. Ch. felt the pernicious influence of the climate in much lesser way, which was lucky, because she was not allowed to use too much quinine due to her pregnancy. She kept herself amazingly strong and was even capable to attend a ball at the governor’s, where she made a good impression in her blue silk dress. With her large trousseau she had been given 4 silk dresses and she had left her wedding dress in Singapore to have it dyed the colour of old gold.

My office was in a sidelane not even 20m away from our backdoor and my hands were full of work in the beginning. Major Carlier, who sat at his desk from 8 to 2 and besides always worked at home, had despite that left behind a formidable list of unfinished commissions.
I was able to wash this dirty mess clean in about 3 months, and after that, after my daily visits to the Coastal battery I had usually finished my officework at 11 am.

A large amount of chained slaves were working on the coast battery, who were under the management of the Ass.Res. v. Vleuten as far as food and clothing concerned; I was in continuous correspondence with him regarding this chapter and the tone of the official letters started to look like they were directed to a subordinate controller, who needed to be reprimanded. It was running so high, that when another rude letter arrived, I sent it back with a blue pencil written note: no notice taken since improper tone. The result was of course a quarrel, which has never been solved, despite the intervenance of the good major Bas Mekern, who was the local commandor and living nextdoor to us.

The case had yet another consequence for me: the time came when the bill of the sale had to be paid and i had no cash to pay it in full; in those days it was custom in small places to pay as much as possible and the rest in payments, for now that was out of the question; still Ch. came to the aid and organised that papa would help us and so we got our whole furnishings for free.

A weekly trip to the camp near the range at Babakan was attached to my work; for this I had bought an old tentcarriage and made these trips with mail horses, through which I could still receive a profit on my declaration.
Bas Mekern had asked me, if he could ride along for once, in order to ge the advice from lieutenant colonel v. Zijll de Jongh regarding the displeasure he had with the departments commandor. The case was, that our Bas wanted to get his pension and as last motive had brought up that he had no riding horse.
When we arrived in Babakan v.Z. de J. refused to listen to Mekern because he did not appear in uniform; so he returned without achieving anything.

A few days later the monthly boat arrived with the married Ltnt. v. Dapperen; the hotel was full and so Bas M. asked us if we perhaps could house the young couple, which had just come from Holland.
Ch. didn’t look forward to it, but did agree and for a week we have had them as guests.